Behold the cherry blossom, harbinger of spring in the nation's capital, beguiler of both tourists and locals, queen of the festival, cause of celebration throughout the city. For about 12 days every year, from late March into early April, nearly 4,000 cherry trees burst into bloom along the Tidal Basin, Potomac River, and Washington Monument grounds. And then, in a slow-motion dissolve--like Cinderella at midnight--the blossoms disappear and the trees return to their more ordinary appearance.
Meanwhile, the grass turns green on the National Mall just in time for the annual Smithsonian Kite Festival, and tulips emerge on the White House lawn, like advance men for the garden tours. This is a great time to come calling, and not just for the chance to see those spring cherry blossoms--a momentary pleasure, after all, and not guaranteed. Instead, plan a spring trip to the capital to tour Washington's lasting, reliable, and even more famous sites: the Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, and other treasures, all set within a landscape that grows more picturesque as the season progresses.
The capital's National Park units plot an excellent tour of the city, taking visitors from one part of town to another, including Georgetown, the Penn Quarter, U Street, Capitol Hill, and the Mall, on the trail of historic landmarks and recreational fun.
The National Mall and Memorials Park
First-time visitors to Washington, D.C., usually start on the National Mall, and rightly so. The two-mile green expanse that stretches westward from the Capitol reflecting pool to the Lincoln Memorial embodies the 1791 vision of city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant--an open space where people might promenade and bustle in and out of public buildings that line the avenue. Today, 2,000 elms border the main Mall, and the public buildings that flank its northern and southern lanes include the U.S. Botanic Garden, the National Gallery of Art and Sculpture Garden, the National Archives, and 10 Smithsonian museums, all blissfully free to the public.
The challenge is how to take it all in. Many visitors hop on and off a narrated tour bus, like the Tourmobile, which travels on a continuous route to the major attractions. Another option is a free bike tour offered by National Park Service rangers, starting at the Jefferson Memorial every Saturday and Sunday at 1 p.m., mid-April through November; bring your own bike, helmet, and water and enjoy the leisurely three-hour ride as a ranger provides the historical context.
The Washington Monument sits on a hill, aligned with the Capitol and the Lincoln Memorial. Private funds financed its construction, which proceeded in fits and starts from 1848 to 1884. (A lack of funding halted construction for so long that stone taken from the original quarry was gone by the time work resumed, which explains why stone at the monument's base is of a slightly different color.) The Washington Monument is the world's tallest freestanding work of masonry, offering a 360-degree view of the city and beyond. Admission is free, but tickets are required; obtain same-day, timed passes at the onsite ticket booth or order in advance (but pay a $2 service fee; call 800-967-2283).
The Lincoln Memorial dominates the western edge of the park. The 19-foot-high statue of a somber Lincoln faces the monument to George Washington and the Capitol in the distance. Etched into the limestone walls of the inner chamber are the words he spoke at Gettysburg and his second inauguration. The memorial is also the site of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.'s "I Have a Dream" speech; an inscription marks the spot where King delivered those historic words.
Flanking the Lincoln Memorial are the war memorials commemorating those who fought in Korea, World War II, and Vietnam—and their placement is purposeful. The words of Lincoln's Gettysburg Address echo and embrace not just Civil War soldiers, but American soldiers in every war: "… that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain."
Across Independence Avenue from the Lincoln and war memorials are shrines to Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Thomas Jefferson. The FDR Memorial debuted in 1997 and differs in design from its older counterparts. Instead of a single statue or an obelisk, the memorial lays out four "rooms" depicting FDR's four presidential terms in sculpture and inscriptions. Exiting the fourth gallery leads one directly around the cherry tree-bordered Tidal Basin path to the Jefferson Memorial, created in 1939. The 19-foot-high statue of Thomas Jefferson stands on a pedestal staring across the Tidal Basin to the White House. FDR was largely responsible for making sure the Jefferson Memorial was built and ensured that it could be seen from the president's residence; he ordered trees cut down on the White House and memorial grounds to provide an unobstructed view.
President's Park
President's Park encompasses the White House and its grounds, the Pennsylvania Avenue plaza, the Ellipse, and the White House Visitor Center. A stroll around the White House perimeter is in order, just to admire its architecture and historic significance. Security precautions that keep Pennsylvania Avenue closed to car traffic between 15th and 17th streets prove a boon for pedestrians. Ninety Princeton American elm trees line the 84-foot-wide avenue, whose granite sidewalks, benches, and pretty streetlights make this a pleasant route to wander, bike, even skateboard past the White House. Nearby attractions are the Smithsonian's Renwick Gallery of Art, right across the street from the White House, and the Corcoran Gallery of Art, on 17th Street.
Though the interior of the White House has undergone extensive renovations over the years, the building's exterior still appears very much as it did when first designed. George Washington, the only president never to have lived here, chose James Hoban's winning design for the President's House, which was modeled on an Irish country house. When the British torched the mansion during the War of 1812, President Madison commissioned Hoban to restore the building to its original design; Hoban later added the North and South porticos as well. (Tours of the White House have been restricted since September 11th; call 202-456-7041 for general information about White House tours and 202-208-1631 for other information about the White House and garden tours.)
Around the corner, where Pennsylvania Avenue makes it way toward the Capitol, the White House Visitor Center is worth a stop. A 30-minute, continuously running video reveals much of what visitors see on a tour inside the White House, while exhibits cover topics ranging from First Family life to architectural history.
Other Notable Parks and Historic Sites
The capital holds a host of other parks and historic sites worth a visit. Fans of black history must be sure to tour the last residence of 19th-century abolitionist, Frederick Douglass, at the national historic site in Anacostia; the African-American Civil War Memorial and African-American Museum on U Street, two blocks from each other; and the Mary McLeod Bethune House on Vermont Avenue, where the civil rights leader and founder of the National Council of Negro Women lived and received heads of state and government officials.
Women's history aficionados will want to tour Capitol Hill's Sewall-Belmont House, launch pad for the women's suffrage movement. Early American history fans should not miss the Old Stone House, in Georgetown, which dates back to 1765, making it the oldest structure in the city. Those looking for outdoor recreational activities might want to explore Hains Point, in East Potomac Park, known not just for cherry trees, but also for its golf course, tennis courts, and popularity among cyclists; Rock Creek Park, whose bike and walking path stretches from suburban Maryland to the Lincoln Memorial; and Theodore Roosevelt Island, where easy hiking trails and a giant statue of Teddy draw Washingtonians in search of a break from the hectic pace of the city.
Sidetrip: Assateague Island National Seashore
Less than two hours away from the sidewalks, streets, and serious attitude of Washington, D.C., is a 37-mile-long island of sandy beaches, salt marshes, bayside waters, and pine forests. The National Park Service partners with Assateague State Park and the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge to maintain the natural beauty and quiet of this sanctuary and to protect it from development. Famous for the herds of horses that roam wild here, Assateague teems with all sorts of wildlife, including resident birds like red-winged blackbirds, yellow warblers, and egrets; white-tailed and sitka deer; and dolphins, stingrays, and other water creatures.
Assateague Island straddles Maryland and Virginia. Enter the park from the north (the Maryland side) and you'll have access to the island's beaches and camping facilities in Assateague State Park and to the wider, more private beaches and more rustic campground of the National Seashore. Be sure to stop at the Barrier Island Visitor Center for maps and information. In addition to camping, this section of the park offers "Life of Assateague" self-guided trails interpreting three different barrier island habitats, four miles of biking/hiking paths, clam-digging, and birdwatching. Enter from the Virginia side and you'll find yourself in Chincoteague, where you'll likewise have the opportunity to hike, bike, boat, and fish. Chincoteague is also the name of the little town here, which has a few restaurants and inns.
Travel Essentials
For general information about visiting Washington, including transportation, hotel, restaurant, and nightlife suggestions, contact the Washington Convention and Tourism Corporation at (800) 422-8644 or (202) 789-7000, or visit www.washington.org. For information about National Park Service events, call (202) 426-6841, or visit www.nps.gov/nacc. For information about Smithsonian events, call (202) 357-2700, or visit www.si.edu.
Special tips for visiting Washington: Always carry your government-issued photo ID with you, which some government buildings now require for entry. Be prepared to stand in line to enter museums and historic attractions, many of which screen visitors--checking handbags, employing metal detectors--for security reasons. For the same reason, leave backpacks and other large items at the hotel. Leave the car at home; heavy traffic and inadequate parking in popular tourist areas, like the National Mall, make the driving experience miserable. Take the modern and convenient "Metro" subway system like most locals, or just walk.
