You focus your eyes on the road ahead, where the hill disappears around a steep, rocky bend. Pedals turn over in a steady rhythm, and you fight to control your breath. Beneath you, two skinny tires trace a slow, invisible line along asphalt freckled at its edges with lichen, reminding you that this isn't just any stretch of pavement, but one deeply rooted in the natural world. To your left, the landscape is brilliant with oranges, yellows, and reds on soft sloping mountains that fold into hazy horizons. It's all a nice distraction from the burning in your legs.
Welcome to the Blue Ridge Parkway--a cycling mecca. Conceived in 1935 as a way to put people to work during the Great Depression and encourage mountain tourism, it brought together private contractors, state and federal highway administrators, Italian and Spanish stonemasons, and thousands from the Civilian Conservation Corps, otherwise known as “Roosevelt's tree army” for the three billion trees they planted from 1933 to 1942. Today, the parkway unites a different group: cyclists who find refuge in the mountains that challenge muscle and mind alike.
So soak it in, keep climbing. Soon your shoulders will drop and your frazzled mind will slow to match the measured pace of your legs. You will become aware of your breath, inhaling leafy scents and birdsong; exhaling tension built up from the world you left behind in a quiet parking lot 20 miles ago.
This 469-mile, self-propelled journey isn't for the faint of heart. It traverses the very spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains that stretch from Georgia to Pennsylvania, part of the larger Appalachian range. Seven-time Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong was rumored to train here, and it's no wonder: The vertical feet climbed from end to end comes to nearly 49,000 feet--a rough equivalent to riding a bike up the Empire State Building 36 times.
But don't let that scare you away. The beauty of this ride is that you can go at your own pace, which means that anyone who's spent a respectable amount of time on a bike can ride the parkway with much joy and success. Scenic overlooks, hikes, visitor centers, and historical sites offer great excuses to break up climbs as long as 25 miles. Thankfully, what goes up must come down: You can spin out any lactic acid (you know, the stuff that makes your legs hurt) on the heart-pumping, 45 mile-per-hour descents.
Whether you choose to conquer the entire parkway from start to finish or simply make a day trip out of it (see Travel Essentials for logistics), the story of the Blue Ridge pulls you in like a good read. Take the northernmost 100 miles, for instance: the Ridge District. Much of this section traces the range's true ridgeline, offering views both left and right, a perfect panoramic. Hills are a little less challenging here, which leaves you with more energy to explore the mountain cabins and folklore that best define this stretch of road. The Humpback Rocks Visitor Center (milepost 5.8) is a worthy starting point, where the restrooms are clean and roomy--perfect for the transition from plain clothes to cycling apparel.
If you happen to pass through Love Gap (milepost 15.4) around lunchtime, fuel up on warm, gooey paninis at the charming Royal Oaks country store and cabins. On a hot day, you can coast downhill on the same road for a dip in Sherando Lake, a pleasant swimming hole in George Washington National Forest. Be aware that the climb back up to the parkway is a steep ten miles—but there's always the option of staying for a night in the cabins, where the Jacuzzis are a perfect remedy for aching muscles.
About 40 miles south, the elevation decreases significantly, and scenic overlooks offer modest but charming views of streams that twinkle and babble under shady trees. It's the ideal place to lay down the bikes and take an afternoon nap. For a change of pace, grab a canoe and float downstream with the help of James River Runners (www.jamesriver.com), who offer half-day rentals. Camp nearby at a primitive riverside campsite, or find a motel in nearby Scottsville.
The next section leads to Apple Orchard Mountain, the parkway's highest point in Virginia. At 3,950 feet, the ancient trees take on a different look—more craggy and gnarled than their low-lying counterparts. Then it's all downhill to the Peaks of Otter area (milepost 85.9), nestled in a solitary mountain bowl. Reward your hard work with buttery mashed potatoes, fried green tomatoes, and locally caught trout at the Peaks of Otter lodge. The dining room overlooks a small pond at the base of a volcano-like mountain, so ask for a window seat.
From the Ridge District, you'll descend into the mostly flat Roanoke Valley before hitting a plateau. Here, the ridge's dense forests give way to wide-open pastoral spaces and lightly rolling hills. Historic rural cabins dot the landscape between mileposts 154.6 and 252.4, offering a glimpse of the backwoods pioneer existence. Grab a camera and take advantage of the morning light to capture your own images of Mabry Mill (milepost 176.2), the most photographed site on the parkway.
Forty miles later, you'll hit the Blue Ridge Music Center (milepost 213), just a few miles north of the border between Virginia and North Carolina. Stop here to get a taste of the traditional music that has thrived in the region for centuries.
You'll know when you roll into Doughton Park because of its serene pastures and historic split-rail fences. Grab your binoculars and hit the trails; hikes range from easy to strenuous. White-tailed deer, fox, and even bobcats have been known to make an appearance. If you get hungry, be sure to stop in at the Bluffs Coffee Shop and Restaurant (milepost 241), famous for its country ham and cobbler.
Twenty five miles later in North Carolina's Highlands District, you'll find yourself climbing to about 4,500 feet on Grandfather Mountain. Despite the intimidating elevation, it's primarily moderate climbs and long downhill runs until you reach Park Headquarters in Asheville.
Before muscling your way out of Asheville, you might consider spending a couple of days in this charming, cultured town. It bustles by day with locally owned craft stores, fine art galleries, and fresh produce stands--and buzzes by night with jazz clubs, Celtic pubs, and the Old Farmers Ball, where friendly locals help you fine-tune your steps to live bluegrass music. Splurge on an overnight stay at the 1899 Wright Inn and Carriage House, a mile from downtown Asheville, with its fireplaces and room-service massages.
Back on the parkway, you're nearly on the home stretch, less than 100 miles from the end where Blue Ridge meets Great Smoky Mountains National Park on the Cherokee Indian Reservation. It's only fitting that the best place to watch sunsets comes near the end of the trip at Waterrock Knob (milepost 451). As you sit here, soaking up the scenery, you may dwell on the ache in your legs, your throbbing lower back, the sharp and sudden longing to return to your own bed. But those ailments are fleeting compared with what really lingers: the memories. The way the morning light warmed fog-cloaked mountains; the day an impossible hill became possible; the moment you let go of rattled nerves and rode with ease among motorists; and best of all, the way you've found yourself in a state of mind that one simply cannot find behind the wheel of a car.
Travel Essentials
One of the biggest challenges of biking the Blue Ridge is figuring out how to carry all your gear. Hitching a trailer up and down mountains is practically out of the question, so instead, choose a stretch of the parkway you'd like to explore, park your car at a central location, and ride in one direction for a couple of days before heading back to home base. It's also possible to get a taste of the parkway in a single day. Depending on your experience level and how long you linger along the way, you can cover anywhere from ten to 100 miles.
If you're in for the long haul, eliminate complicated logistics by going through a touring company like Black Bear Adventures (www.blackbearadventures.com). This outfitter, based in Asheville, North Carolina, shuttles people as far north as Front Royal, Virginia, and offers rides for every skill level--from the “Blue Ridge Sampler,” with options of 60-100 miles in three days, to a monstrous 575-mile tour that covers the entire parkway plus Shenandoah National Park's Skyline Drive in 16 days. Prices range from $800 to $4,700 per person, and include food, lodging, and mechanical support.
If you choose to go it alone, brush up on basic maintenance skills. You'll need to carry a map, hand pump, extra tubes, tire levers, lots of water, food, a headlight, and a taillight (some stretches of road go through dark tunnels). The best bike clothing is technical, sweat-wicking gear: Padded shorts are a must for any distance, and bright jerseys help motorists distinguish you from the scenery. Wear layers. It can get chilly in the shade and at higher elevations, even in the summer.
Keep in mind that traffic picks up on weekends, holidays, and when the leaves peak in mid-October. You should have experience riding in light traffic before you embark on a parkway trip.
For more information on how to plan your trip and ride safe, grab a copy of Elizabeth and Charlie Skinner's latest edition of Bicycling the Blue Ridge Parkway, or visit www.nps.gov/blri.
Side Trip
Can't stand another second on a bike seat? Consider packing up and heading to the New River Gorge in West Virginia. Outdoor enthusiasts from all over the country flock here for rock climbing, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, and primitive camping--but its stellar whitewater rafting put it on the map. Established as a national river in 1978, the New River is one of the oldest on the continent, flowing northward through deep canyons from a series of slow, serene sections to heart-pounding rapids too dangerous to raft commercially. Local outfitters can help you find a happy medium: Try Class VI River Runners (www.class-vi.com), Rivermen Whitewater (www.rivermen.com), Passages to Adventure (www.passagestoadventure.com), or Wildwater (www.wvraft.com). Rafting trips vary in length from several hours to several days during a season that runs from April through October, with a peak in visitation from mid-September to early October. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/neri.
